MyDyre Jewel’s has created this diamond information page to help you better understand the excellent quality of diamonds.

To judge the quality of diamonds, four factors are used. Cut, clarity, color and carat weight are known as the “4 C’s” of diamonds.  Although it can take years of training to understand each of these in detail, if a buyer knows the basics behind what the 4 C’s mean and how it affects the value of a diamond, a more informed decision can be made in selecting your diamond.

Cut

While many people confuse the cut of a diamond with the shape of a diamond, the cut of a diamond determines how well it reflects light.  The brilliance or sparkle of the diamond is determined by the reflection of light from the gem.  A too shallow cut allows light to escape out the sides and the diamond loses light, so it is not as brilliant.  If the cut is too deep, the diamond can appear dull or dark as light is lost out the bottom of the diamond.  Brilliance, beauty and value of a diamond is determined by how well-cut and well-proportioned the diamond is, allowing the maximum amount of light to enter, reflect and return to the eye.

Today’s choice of diamond shapes is only limited by the imagination and/or skill of the diamond cutter craftsmen.   They make every effort during the diamond cutting process to make sure that the maximum amount of light reflects back to the eye.  Each diamond is cut into carefully angled flat surfaces, called facets.   Most round, brilliant-cut or fancy diamonds have 58 angled flat surfaces.  Any variation of these facets’s can allow light leakage and reduce the value of the stone.   The precision of each facet’s placement affects the amount of fire and brilliance that the diamond shows resulting in its ultimate beauty.

Clarity

In diamonds, very tiny natural birthmarks are known as inclusions and are the gem’s fingerprint.   They do not endanger its durability and will not mar the beauty of the diamond, but determines its “character”.    Inclusions are internal imperfections in the diamond, while external imperfections or surface irregularities are called blemishes.   Both are determined by viewing the diamond under a 10 power magnification. 

A diamond becomes rarer and more valuable with the fewer imperfections it has.   Many inclusions can not be seen by the naked eye and requires at least a 10X magnification to see them.   SI2 is a laboratory certified clarity rating scale that represents the first point in which inclusions can not be seen by the average eye.

It is a misconception that higher clarity means a more beautiful diamond.    Since most inclusions are not visible to the naked eye (SI2 and above), the higher clarity increases the rarity of the diamond as well as the price, but does not really improve its appearance.    Make sure that you have selected the right clarity for the right reasons, even though a higher clarity can be more valuable and desirable.  

An experience grader determines the clarity grades for diamonds under a 10X magnification and classifies them as listed below.

(FL) Flawless – these are diamonds that show no inclusions or blemishes of any sort, both internally and externally.
(IF) Internally Flawless – these are diamonds that have no internal inclusions and blemishes are very minor.
(VVS) Very, Very Slightly Included - these diamonds are graded either as VVS1 or VVS2.  Inclusions are extremely difficult to see in both.    Internal graining, tiny feather, some faint clouds, or even a few tiny pinpoints are some of the typical inclusions at this grade.

(VS) Very Slightly Included - these diamonds are graded either as VS1 or VS2.  They have inclusions that are minor and impossible to see with the naked eye.  Small feathers, some very faint clouds, some crystals, or even some grouping of pinpoints are the inclusions at this grade.

(SI) Slightly Included - SI1, SI2, and SI3 are the three subcategories that these diamonds are graded at.   Inclusions are centrally located and easy to detect.   Some may be visible to the naked eye, but will not be visible when mounted into jewelry.    Feathers, crystals and clouds are the most noticeable inclusions.

(I) Imperfect - I1, I2, and I3 are the three subcategories that these diamonds are graded at.   Under 10X magnification, inclusions are very obvious and may be visible to the naked eye.  Crystals and feathers are the most common inclusions.

Color

The most prized diamonds are those with no color.   Colorless diamonds are desired because their remarkable optical properties create their remarkable beauty.  Diamonds without color allow the light to be better reflected and it disperses as a rainbow of color.

Some diamonds can contain shades of yellow to brown, which are called champagne diamonds.   “Fancies” are colored diamonds, such as blue, pink, green, red, or amber.  The difference between one grade and its neighbor is very subtle and varies from totally colorless to light color or tint.

The color grade scale:
D: Absolutely colorless – extremely rare - is the highest color grade.
E: Colorless – very rare – can only detect minute traces of color.
F: Colorless – high quality w/slight color, but considered a “colorless” grade.   
G-H: Near-colorless – excellent value - color is noticeable only when compared directly with colorless diamonds.
I-J: Near-colorless – very good value - color is slightly detectable.
K-Z: Amounts of color are increasingly noticeable. 

Even though a stone with a grade “K” or above has a visible tint, if it has good clarity and cut it can still be very lovely, especially if the mounting is well designed.  What to look for is having a good balance of cut, clarity, and color.

Carat

Diamonds are weighed in carats (ct).   The more valuable stone will weigh more, if all other factors are equal, such as cut, color, and clarity.   Price is impacted most by the size of the diamond.  The most valuable stones tend to be larger stones as they are rarer.   

0.01 to 1.00 carat is the most common sizes of diamonds.    A diamonds’ ultimate value is determined more by cut, clarity, and color; with size often is the least important factor.    The diamond’s ability to reflect light, will highly impact the value of the diamond more than the size. 

The appearance of two diamonds in comparing weights can be different as well due to 1.) well cut; 2.) deep cut; or 3.) shallow cut diamonds.   The weights can be the same, but the appearance can be different.    For this reason, carat weight should never be mistaken for the dimensions of a diamond.

Size is just one factor in determining the value of your diamond.   High quality diamonds can be found in all size ranges, and you have learned that two diamonds of equal size can have very unequal prices due to color, cut, and clarity.

If a piece of jewelry has more than one diamond in it, the combined total weight of all the stones is called “carat total weight” (ctw).

Pricing on diamonds is not equal as the size of the diamond increases.   For example, a 0.50ct diamond will cost more that two 0.25ct diamonds or two 1.00ct diamonds will cost a lot less that one 2.00ct diamond.    Also, premium stones are those above a full carat weight.   For example, a 0.95ct diamond will cost a lot less than a 1.00ct diamond, but there won’t be much difference in price between a 0.90ct and 0.95ct diamond.

One of the key things to remember when purchasing a diamond is that “bigger is not always better”.    The balance between the 4C’s determines the diamond’s ultimate value.  Cut, clarity, color, and carat weight must all be considered together when determining the true worth of your diamond.